MANASLU 8163M EXPRESS EXPEDITION

The Manaslu 8163m Express Expedition is an ambitious and exhilarating journey that offers a rapid yet safe ascent of the world’s eighth highest peak. Spanning over several days, this expedition is meticulously planned to maximize efficiency and minimize risks, ensuring a successful summit bid while prioritizing safety.

Commencing with arrival in Kathmandu, participants undergo thorough briefings, gear checks, and logistical preparations. From there, the expedition team embarks on a scenic Helicopter Flight to Sama Gaon, the starting point for the trek to Base Camp. Trekking through remote and pristine landscapes, trekkers gradually acclimatize while soaking in the breathtaking beauty of the Manaslu region.

Upon reaching Base Camp, climbers undergo final preparations and acclimatization rotations, ascending to higher camps to adapt to the thinning air and challenging conditions. With expert guidance and support, participants embark on the summit push, navigating technical terrain and facing the physical and mental challenges of high-altitude mountaineering.

After a successful summit bid, climbers descend safely to Base Camp, where they celebrate their achievement before trekking back to Sama Gaon. A scenic flight from Sama Gaon to Kathmandu also marks the conclusion of the expedition, leaving participants with unforgettable memories of conquering one of the world’s most formidable peaks.

EXPRESS CLIMB HIGHLIGHTS

  • 1:1 IFMGA Guide with at least 1X Manaslu summits, express guided expeditions, several 8000M to 7000M – 6000M experiences
  • or 1:1 NNMGA Guide with at least 3X Manaslu guided summits, express guided expeditions, several 8000M to 7000M – 6000M experiences
  • 10 weeks of hypoxic training. Hypoxic equipment rentals provided, 12 weeks of training program and consultation by the World’s leading altitude center.
  • Shared 🚁 Helicopter In Kathmandu – Samagaon/Out from BC – Kathmandu
  • 6X Supplemental Oxygen
  • An additional guide to assist with logistics for Camp 1 – 4
  • Small team with a higher degree of Flexibility, independence, and support system

Our Manaslu 8163M express expedition starts with a helicopter flight to Samagaun, a village at an altitude of 3690 meters, on the third day of the trip. After a day of acclimatization in the village, we will begin our ascent to the Manaslu base camp at 4800 meters, where our camps will have already been set up by our expedition management, Sherpa, and Porter teams. Please see the Manaslu Expedition strategy for more detailed information on climbing strategies.

This expedition is also a part of our “Road to EVEREST program, the Manalsu Expedition being the final preparation expedition before taking on the Big E.

*History: Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956, by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition.

Note: While this achievement opens up exciting possibilities, it’s essential to maintain our focus on a well-rounded approach to climbing. Our goal isn’t just speed; it’s about combining all the essential elements of a safe and successful ascent, while also embracing the speed climbing factor. Safety remains our paramount concern during every expedited climb.

EXPEDITION HIGHLIGHTS

  • 1:1 Guide/client ratio. IFMGA certified guide with express guiding experiences, at least 1X Manaslu & several 8000M+ Summits, high level of support, experience, and guiding knowledge for Everest and Lhotse climb.
  • Manaslu 8163M True Summit
  • 8 Weeks of Personalised hypoxic altitude training & acclimatization
  • North East face route
  • 🚁 Shared helicopter before and after the expedition
  • 1:1 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
  • Camp 1 – 4 strategy with rotation and rest days

Itinerary

Expand All
  • Day 1: Arrival and Gear Check

    Participants arrive in Kathmandu and meet with the expedition team for an initial briefing and gear check.

  • Day 2: Helicopter to Samagaon/ Base Camp

    Take a helicopter flight from Kathmandu to Samagaon, the starting point of the trek to Base Camp. The shared helicopter ensures efficient transportation for the team.

  • Day 3: Acclimatization Day

    Spend a day in Samagaon for acclimatization, allowing the team to adjust to the altitude and prepare for the ascent.

  • Day 4: Trek to Camp 1

    Begin the trek to Camp 1, gradually ascending towards higher altitudes while enjoying the stunning mountain scenery along the way.

  • Day 5: Climb to Camp 2

    Climb to Camp 2 with supplemental oxygen support, aiding in acclimatization and preparing for the higher altitudes.

  • Day 6: Climb to Camp 3

    Continue the ascent to Camp 3, reaching even higher elevations as the team progresses towards the summit.

  • Day 7-8: Return to Base Camp and Rest Days

    Descend back to Base Camp for rest and recuperation, allowing the team to recharge before the summit push.

  • Day 9-13: Contingency Days

    Reserved for any unforeseen circumstances such as inclement weather, allowing flexibility in the itinerary to ensure the safety and success of the expedition.

  • Day 14-23: Summit Push

    Embark on the summit push, dedicating several days to reach the summit of Manaslu. This period involves navigating challenging terrain, overcoming physical and mental obstacles, and enduring the harsh conditions of high altitude.

  • Day 24: Return to Base Camp

    Descend back to Base Camp after a successful summit bid, celebrating the achievement and reflecting on the journey.

  • Day 25: Helicopter back to Kathmandu

    Take a shared helicopter charter from Base Camp to Kathmandu, providing a swift and comfortable return journey.

  • Day 26: Departure

    Participants depart from Kathmandu, concluding the expedition.

Include / Exclude

Cost Includes:

    • NMA certified Guide leader
    • 6 Supplemental Oxygen Cylinders for client use
    • 8 to 10 Weeks of hypoxic rentals, personalized training, and acclimatization guidance from instructors. Additional Shipping costs apply.
    • Shared 🚁 Helicopter Charter From Kathmandu – Samagoan – Kathmandu
    • $1000 Individual tip pool. (This is not a summit bonus tip) *Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security and staffs). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)*
    • Nama branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
    • 1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
    • Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members)
    • 1 night before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
    • All trekking and climbing permits (Manaslu Region Permit and TIMS)
    • All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
    • Expedition tents (2 or 1-person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
    • 60 kgs personal weight
    • Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)
    • Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
    • Burners and expedition equipments
    • Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
    • Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
    • Lodge accommodation during the trek
    • Porters per guest
    • Arrival pick-up and departure
    • Basic First aid kit
    • Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

Cost Excludes:

  • Visas and travel insurance
  • Summit Bonus Tip ($1200 – $1500 P/P)
  • Entertainment and food ( Kathmandu )
  • Bottled drinks and beverages
  • Evacuation (will be done in your account)
  • Summit Tips
  • Single supplement Charges
  • Laundry, Phone services, Personal expenditure transactions
  • Optional trips
  • Tea breaks, chocolates or other snacks, and any meals besides breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
  • Delay and cancellation because of natural phenomenon
  • International flights to Kathmandu

Price per person

COST: $33000.00 Per Person.

Note – Minimum of 8 week of hypoxic training mandatory

Deposit: $7000 required

EXPRESS CLIMB HIGHLIGHTS

  • 1:1 IFMGA Guide with at least 1X Manaslu summits, express guided expeditions, several 8000M to 7000M – 6000M experiences
  • or 1:1 NNMGA Guide with at least 3X Manaslu guided summits, express guided expeditions, several 8000M to 7000M – 6000M experiences
  • 10 weeks of hypoxic training. Hypoxic equipment rentals provided, 12 weeks of training program and consultation by the World’s leading altitude center.
  • Shared 🚁 Helicopter In Kathmandu – Samagaon/Out from BC – Kathmandu
  • 6X Supplemental Oxygen
  • An additional guide to assist with logistics for Camp 1 – 4
  • Small team with a higher degree of Flexibility, independence, and support system

2024 MANASLU EXPEDITION DEPARTURES. . .

Autumn 2024

16th September – 9th October

Booking closes on 1st July 2024

Usefull Information

  1. Overview:
    • The Manaslu 8163m Express Expedition is a high-altitude mountaineering expedition to summit Mount Manaslu, the eighth highest peak in the world. This expedition is designed for experienced mountaineers seeking a fast and efficient ascent of Manaslu.
  2. Duration:
    • The expedition typically lasts around 35 to 40 days, including arrival and departure days. The climbing portion of the expedition spans approximately 25 to 30 days, depending on weather conditions and acclimatization needs.
  3. Expedition Route:
    • The expedition follows the standard route on the northeast face of Mount Manaslu, starting from the village of Sama Gaon. The ascent includes establishing multiple high camps and a final summit push from Camp 4.
  4. Climbing Difficulty:
    • Climbing Mount Manaslu is considered highly challenging due to its extreme altitude, technical terrain, and unpredictable weather conditions. Participants should have prior experience with high-altitude climbing and be proficient in the use of climbing equipment.
  5. Key Highlights:
    • Summiting the eighth highest peak in the world.
    • Stunning panoramic views of the Himalayan range from the summit.
    • Immersion in the unique culture and landscape of the Manaslu region.
    • Opportunity to climb one of the most sought-after peaks in the world.
  6. Safety Measures:
    • The expedition is led by experienced guides with extensive knowledge of the route and mountain conditions. Safety equipment, including ropes, harnesses, and oxygen, is provided. Climbing activities adhere to strict safety protocols.
  7. Group Size:
    • The group size is typically small to ensure personalized attention and safety. It may vary depending on demand and logistics but is generally limited to maintain safety standards.
  8. Included in the Expedition Package:
    • Expedition permits and climbing fees.
    • Accommodation and meals during the expedition.
    • Transportation to and from the mountain.
    • Experienced guides and support staff.
    • High-altitude camping equipment.
    • Medical and emergency evacuation services.
  9. Booking Information:
    • Interested participants can book the Manaslu 8163m Express Expedition through authorized expedition organizers or travel agencies specializing in high-altitude mountaineering. Early booking is recommended due to limited availability and permit restrictions.
  10. Preparation:
    • Participants are advised to undergo thorough physical training and acclimatization before the expedition. Familiarity with high-altitude climbing techniques and equipment is essential for a successful summit bid.

The Manaslu 8163m Express Expedition offers an exhilarating opportunity for seasoned mountaineers to conquer the eighth highest peak in the world. Spanning approximately 35 to 40 days, with around 25 to 30 days dedicated to climbing, this expedition provides a fast and efficient ascent of Mount Manaslu. Following the standard route on the northeast face from Sama Gaon, climbers establish multiple high camps before embarking on the final summit push from Camp 4. Led by experienced guides and equipped with necessary safety gear, participants navigate through challenging terrain and extreme altitudes to reach the majestic summit. With stunning panoramic views and immersion in the unique culture of the Manaslu region, the expedition promises an unforgettable mountaineering adventure.

 

Equipment List

Mountain climbing Gears

  • Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )
  • Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
  • A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
  • Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
  • Rappel/belay device: ATC or figure 8
  • 10-12 point crampon

Mountaineering boots

  • Mountaineering boots suitable for above 8000m; La Sportiva or equivalent
  • Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
  • Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
  • Liner socks or equivalent: 6 pairs

Body Layers:

  • Expedition suits – North face Himalayan suit or similat
  • 4 merino base layers: top / bottom set
  • 5 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
  • Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
  • Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
  • Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
  • Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
  • Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
  • Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
  • Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
  • Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs

Headgear and Hand wear:

  • Wool hat (ski hat)
  • Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
  • Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
  • Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
  • Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
  • Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
  • Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
  • Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
  • Expedition Mitts for bad weather

Personal Gear:

  • Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
  • Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
  • Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
  • Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
  • High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
  • Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
  • Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
  • Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
  • Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
  • Spoon: Plastic spoon
  • Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
  • Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
  • Lip balm with sunblock
  • Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 litter capacity
  • Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
  • Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
  • Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
  • Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
  • Hand warmers & toe warmers
  • Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
  • Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
  • Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
  • Travel Clothes
  • Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
  • Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, smart phone, etc
  • Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
  • Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
  • Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone*

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FAQs

    Trip Fact

  • Best Seasons March to May, September to November
  • Group Size 2 To 10
  • Duration 26 DAYS BOOKING OPEN FOR 2024
  • Maximum Altitude 8163M
  • Trek Difficulty Challenging

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